The story of Bessie Williamson is one that can’t be told enough. Beam Suntory did a great job with their 25 year old, travel exclusive release, a few years back (2019), of honoring her contributions to Laphroaig’s success by re-telling her story to today’s market…so I’ll leave out the typical print material which can be found easily through the Googly.
Every now and then though, some “Williamson” stock will be floated out by independent bottlers; a famous moniker used to label teaspooned Laphroaig. Technically considered a blended malt at this point, I personally refuse to acknowledge such serious behavior, and for the sake of my sanity I choose to treat these whiskies with the same respect as I would for single malts.
Laphroaig "Bessie" (The Whisky Jury) 2010/11 Year |35th Release|
Refill Sherry Butt 138 - 56.5%
Appearance: Pale/Medium Brown, slow oily legs.
First Whiff: Peat bog bath…like bathing in Islay water, perhaps? Maybe at next year's Fèis...
Nose: Medicinal/mossy side of the peat spectrum…iodine, nail polish remover. Slight off note, like sweaty gym bag, little greasy. With water: Meatier, salted pork.
Palate: Very delicate, oily, warm. Leathery peat, latex band aids, fishy…fresh fish, like salmon/tuna sushi. Pork/hammy as well, sliced Boars Head Ham (my childhood fav). With water: Slight citrus (orangey), but very subdued. Light cinnamon spice, but still leaning more towards the feints…sweaty clothing side of things.
Finish: Long, warming, and medicinal. Cough syrupy, but without the nasty artificial sweetness.
Summary: Like Bessie, this one was full of the Laphroaig character, spirit driven…a fitting tribute for sure. With all the odd notes, you’d think I hated it, but ask any Scotch drinker…those funky notes are always welcome. Recommend playing with it a little…air time/water.
IDS SCORE: 87
Laphroaig "Williamson"
(Thompson Bros.)
2010/12 Year - Refill Sherry Butt 50%
Appearance: Corn, pale honey
First Whiff: Seaweed covered seashells…by the sea shore…
Nose: Bit more brine to this one with the fresh seaweed. Coastally and floral, white lilies. Wet clay, farmy, pickled herring. With water: More farmy funk, corn pops.
Palate: Chewy Limoncello, citrus pine sol at first gets more sour. Salinic and mineral, nice oils. Middle opens up with honeysuckle and candied citrus…lemon-lime. With water: Rounds out the edges, for sure. Buttery burnt popcorn.
Finish: Drying but long. Salty sea shells. Buttery with a slight sulphury back note.
Summary: Phil & Simon know what they’re doing. They could’ve easily bottled each of the casks that were vatted into this batch, and made a pretty penny off the ambiguous name, alone. Instead, they spread the love by creating a great, affordable “small batch” from a classic Islay malt. Although, even tempered down to a more than reasonable 50% drinking strength, I’d recommend even a bit more water to this one.
IDS SCORE: 87
Laphroaig "Williamson"
(The Whisky Jury)
2010/12 Year |56th Release|
1st Fill Oloroso 06017 - 52.3%
Appearance: Auburn/deep tawny
First Whiff: Maple peat.
Nose: More candied, richer than the first two…no surprise. Smokey toffee. Vanilla extract, nutty caramel. FRUITS! And not just citrus. Some lovely stone fruits…black cherry tea, fresh apricots, figs, a little liquorice; almost madeira-like. With water: Tootsie rolls, cherry covered chocolates.
Palate: Yum. No really…good thing I did this one last. Quite unctuous. There’s a meaty side, like soy sauce, umami. Savory. Coffee grinds, leather bound books (of which I have MANY). Musty apricots.
Finish: Medium/warming but never overpowering. Rides an iodine wave on the way down. Full of Laphroaig spirit.
Summary: Young, especially refill Laphroaig is always going to retain its character…and that was clear for all three of these lovely pours. The refills were a bit naked, little influence/balance with the cask…third fills perhaps? The oloroso was more than just an aperitif, there was a beautiful balance I would’ve never predicted. I believe Bessie would’ve appreciated all three of these bottles…and considering the prices these would fetch if they bore a Laphroaig stamp instead, our wallets should be appreciative as well.
IDS SCORE: 90
Teaspooned Laphroaigs
